La Manzanilla sailing race underway across Tenacatita Bay

LA MANZANILLA, Jalisco, Mexico - This year's La Manzanilla race was minus the white tents, free food and free tequila, but it got going almost on time with about a dozen boats Saturday.

Oh, and the Corona girls in the hot pants were missing, too...

Admiral Fox jumped aboard the sailing vessel Di's Dream, after hiring a panga to take her and a bunch of other crew members out to the race course. When I last saw her heading offshore, she was perched in the stern of the boat.



Getting off the beach in the panga was not problem, but the big surf proved challenging to other small boats, including the rowboat with Joe and Grant.

Grant pulled his hardest and managed after several close calls to make his way out to Joe's boat to join the race.



In the meantime, I stayed on shore to chat with the rest of the racing peanut gallery. The boats got off to a great start, but the winds were very light at first. As I write this, the sailboats are about halfway around the course, heading across the best of the race at the westerly edge of Tenacatita Bay.






As soon as my Palapa Joe's fishburger arrives, I will chow down and head out to catch the photo finish.

Or is it, photo the finish?

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

To Barra de Navidad for a croissant - and to find the miracle store

BARRA DE NAVIDAD, Jalisco, Mexico - Admiral Fox, amiga Kathleen Schamel and I left our outpost in Arroyo Seco (and the hotel on the beach) to roar into Barra de Navidad Saturday for a look at the city. We also wanted to pick up a few things to take back to the USSA when we return later this spring.

Kathleen's last visit to Barra was about 6 years go when she was crewing aboard our sailboat Sabbatical and we were cruising the coast from Puerto Vallarta to Zihuatenjeo.

Of course, on Saturday we stopped at the French Baker on the street next to the bay first, for a croissant or two and some hot tea.

Inside the Milagro store

There were not a lot of tourists in town - or at least up early (11 a.m.). There were quite a few spring break folks about town though, obvious by their bathing attire (or lack of it) and the sweating bottles of Corona they clutched so close.

One stop for me was the Milagro Store - yes, a store that sells various religious items as well as other stuff. I bought a couple of things for our new house in New York and hope that the milagro will be that we get to see our granddaughter here in Mexico sometime soon.

In our travels, we also picked up amiga Laura McCartney who walks with her pooch Mia around Barra every day. At least every day when she isn't out in Arroyo Seco staying at the hotel.

She, the Admiral and Kathleen were checking out the Bob Marley store when I caught up with them, aprés my croissant. A Bob Marley store? I am not kidding. It's a store that seems devoted to all things hippie and equally devoted to Bob Marley.

Three amigas

Fifteen minutes inside of it, and I was considering getting some dreadlocks. Considering.

Barra is a great place to do such browsing but when lunchtime arrived, we were near crisis. Should we eat at Mexico Lindo (our favorite in Barra) or trek back over the mountain to La Manzanilla for lunch at Palapa Joe's.

Palapa Joe's won out fairly easily and we had a great lunch there, sitting at the new bar (new this season). Adm. Fox and I had hamburguesas de pollo, of course. It was a bean and cheese burrito for Kathleen.

When we parked in La Manzanilla, we noticed that a pickup truck was parked nearly in front of Palapa Joe's, advertising a competitor's restaurant on the jardin. The sign wasn't enough to tempt us to divert from our path, however.

And as a bonus for our good choice of luncheon spot, we were able to have key lime pie for dessert - the last slice of piece.

Palapa Joe's never disappoints.

Outside Palapa Joe's in La Manzanilla

Irish music, Irish food and then Mexican pesos all - for an ambulance

LA MANZANILLA, Jalisco, Mexico - A fund raiser the day before St. Patrick's Day in La Manzanilla brought out a good-sized crowd to eat Irish stew, soda bread, drink Guinness - and listen to some fine Irish music.

The money raised is to go towards the ambulance and emergency services in La Manzanilla.

Mike and Myranda

The event was held in the rooftop palapa of Richard and Nansee, a wonderful setting for, well, just about anything. The last time I was on that rooftop, I was trying (mostly unsuccessfully) to learn the tango.

Wednesday night, I didn't give the Irish Jig a try, though my feet were tapping all through it.

The music was provided by Myranda and Mike (the Celtic Duo) with Admiral Fox joining in on her fiddle.

Myranda did a fine job playing and singing (barely a dry eye in the palapa when she finished singing "Oh Danny Boy..."). She also gave a demonstration of just how the Irish Jig is done - and then got a half dozen people up on their feet to try it out. The video below highlights some of that action.

How much money was raised?

Ask Dan tonight at Palapa Joes if he shows up with his harmonica to play some music with the Lizards.

3rd Annual La Manzanilla Cup - a fun race to watch and to film

LA MANZANILLA, Jalisco, Mexico - While my sailboat steering hand was twitching at the outset of the 3rd Annual La Manzanilla Cup sailboat race in Tenacatita Bay Tuesday, is was equally fun to watch the event from the race deck in front of Restaurant Raul, knowing that later I would be putting together a short video of the event.

Richard (right) accepts the Cup from last year's winner

The race is put on annually just for fun. And this year will be a real counter-point to an arguably serious yacht race this Saturday sponsored by the municipality of La Huerta. The Saturday race is serious enough that none of the boats that raced Tuesday are large enough to even enter. And in the villages, sounds trucks are driving around touting Saturday's event, encouraging people to come and watch.

It's doubtful that the people of these small pueblos will turn out in force to watch expensive yachts - some of which are worth 100 times the annual income of the villagers.

The winner of Tuesday's La Manzanilla Cup was Richard, best known as Richard of Richard and Nansee who have a house in La Manzanilla where they hold a variety of events each season.

Several years ago, I was there New Year's Eve and got a lesson in how to dance the tango from some professional instructors.

Six boats competed in the Cup race, which was a quick round-the-bay event with good winds and very light seas. The starting flag was a red tablecloth from Raul's Restaurant that did as fine a job as any America's Cup banners. Alaska Barb handled the start and finish line duties.

When not filming, I  sat at the press table with La Manzanilla's Lois Lane (aka Jane Gorby) who has written an account of the event for her newspaper, the Guadalajara Reporter. Jane was nattily attired with a very professional-looking hat that held her press credentials.

Here's a short video of the race:

Quick trip to Arroyo Seco and La Manzanilla - too quick, indeed

ARROYO SECO, Jalisco, Mexico - Admiral Fox, son Dustin and I - along with amigas Laura, Christina and Pat from Canada - all shot out of Puerto Vallarta Thursday for a trip to the southland.

Laura, Christina and Pat were bound for a condo in Barra de Navidad rented for a few months. Adm. Fox, Dustin and I were headed a few days of R&R in Arroyo Seco. (R&R, I know, I know...)

It was great homecoming (the second in as many weeks) in Arroyo Seco and La Manzanilla.

Anna - the quinceanera

In Arroyo Seco, we visited with amigos Jim and Vickie, as well as Julien and, of course, our neighbors Chena and Chon who take care of our property when we are not there. (And frequently even when we are there.)

And we stopped in at a coming-of-age 'quinceanera' party in the main square last night. It was a wild affair with great music and food.

You really haven't lived until you have heard Achy Breaky Heart done in Spanish - and watched a group of gorgeous young Mexican women doing a line dance while wearing prom dresses.


In our travels we also managed to eat at three different La Manzanilla Restaurants: Cafe Risa, Palapa Joe's and Fiesta Mexicana.

Fiesta Mexicana? But isn't that in Tenacatita?

Same sign, even better food

Well, it was - along with a lot of other nice restaurants, unceremoniously evicted by a Guadalajara developer who wants to build a resort and golf course. What is it with the golf course fetish these developers all have?

Anyway, Fiesta Mexicana opened a new restaurant just up the beach from downtown La Manzanilla and I am happy to report the setting - and food - I think is even better than before.

And the evictees from Tenacatita beach and the oceanfront (Adm. Fox and I included) continue to battle in court to get our property back.



In Arroyo Seco, the palm trees around the property have grown so much it's like walking into a jungle-themed park when you go in through the front gate.

In coming weeks, we will be pulling the place together. This trip, we ate, played on the beach and drove the quad around.

And it was great.


Pink Flamingo from the front gate


Palapa with new lamina tile roof

As I write this, we are back in Puerto Vallarta and have a full week planned, including a mid-week visit from Beth and Roy, who are coming from La Manzanilla Wednesday to pick up Beth's son (and our nephew) Nate at the airport.


Nate will get a quick Mexico baptism with a whale-watching panga tour set for 9 a.m. Thursday morning. Quite a difference in scenery (and temperature) from Ithaca, New York where he lives and goes to college.

Admiral Fox and I plan on going along on the panga expedition, too. After seeing whales on one trip with Di and Roger Frizzelle about their sailing vessell Di's Dream, followed by a panga ride where we motored behind a manta ray for a half-hour, I'm hoping for a post-Christmas glimpse of a mermaid.

For you skeptics, I would like to report that I've seen many mermaids on beaches here in Puerto Vallarta and in La Manzanilla.... The quest to find on in the water begins Thursday.

Settled in Nuevo Vallarta home, but Arroyo Seco beckons

NUEVO VALLARTA, Nayarit, Mexico - Life in Nuevo Vallarta has become as close to routine as life allows here, with most mornings dedicated to exercise (swimming), some writing (blogs and other screeds), planning out of the day (where should we eat lunch?), followed by, well, more exercise, more writing and more planning.

In the past few weeks, we have made a foray south to Arroyo Seco and La Manzanilla, gone whale watching with Roger and Di Frizzelle on their 47-foot yacht, Di's Dream, ran enough errands to run through $100 in gasoline - and helped Dustin get his new home set up here, a home in which we live, too.

How many 30-year-olds do you know whose parents move in with them?

The turnabout is fair play, however, as Adm. Fox and I are helping Dustin find his footing amid the domestic upheaval of separation that too many people reading this have gone through. Divorce is not any prettier among the palm trees.

Still, times are good and getting better day by day.



Di and Sylvia on whale watch patrol


Infinity pool at resort north of La Cruz

Last week we went to a fabulous resort north of La Cruz for the afternoon, where I sipped the best Pina Colada I ever had. And yes, the second one was as good as the first. The place has three infinity pools, each spilling over into the next one.

We only got as far as pool number two for swimming, though Dustin said that ocean waves out front were fine for swimming and/or boogie boarding.

On Christmas Day, we had breakfast with the Frizzelles and Dustin at nearby Paradise Village, then retired to the beach for a family tradition - an Christmas afternoon of boogie boarding and margaritas on the sand.

Sylvia and Dustin at breakfast, Christmas 2010

I opted for a Pina Colada during the course of the afternoon, instead of a margarita. Perhaps that will be a new family tradition, too.

How was the boogie boarding? Fabuloso... Just fabuloso.

Towards midafternoon, Santa Claus arrived on the beach, too - in great style - landing via parasailer. Very classy.




Santa Claus on Paradise Village Beach


Life at the beach

Our next adventure will be to head back to Arroyo Seco in a few days with amigas Laura and Christina from Canada. They are staying at Casa Dustin right now and will be spending the winter in Barra de Navidad.

We will also be checking out the situation at Tenacatita, the site of a beachside 'picnic' today that was put together to draw attention of the seizure of the property August 4 - and the eviction of nearly 800 residents. It's a mess. Here's a recent blog on the situation: Beach picnic/protest

New Year's Eve looks like it will be in Arroyo Seco or La Manzanilla at Palapa Joes for Admiral Fox and I.

Hoo-boy! Can you say, Cuba Libre?

End-of-the-semester shuffle starts for this year's Mexico adventures

SACRAMENTO, Calif., USA - The last term papers and projects have been turned in, graded and returned, leaving only the avalanche of portfolios from my students, compilations of their work from the entire semester - kind of an academic legal brief as to why the student should get a good grade.

When those portfolios all show up early next week, it's time for me to dig through the pile and assign grades - a process that usually takes me right up until the day we leave for Mexico.

With four full classes, it looks about the same this year, too.

What is different about this year is that because we have been the guests of Steve and Pam, the packing up transition is less problematic - and less traumatic. When we get close to departure day, we live within two miles of our storage unit.

And even at that, we have very little to even stick into storage, thanks to Pam and Steve's letting us stay in their nicely furnished guest quarters.

I think I will be able to get everything in a single pickup truck load - and that's using my Nissan with a camper shell.

As the temperatures in Sacramento have started dropping down to the freezing level at night - and warming up into the high 40s during the day - those warm days at the beaches in Arroyo Seco and La Manzanilla are the stuff that dreams are made of.

And in this case, dreams set to come true.

Just a 100 or so portfolios stand in my way.

La Manzanilla beach

Getting out of the U.S. to Mexico, just ahead of the snow season

CAMP CONNELL, Calif., USA - The news from amigo Sanders Lamont this morning was that he already has 3.5 feet of snow on the ground at his house - and more falling all the time.

Welcome to the Northern California mountains, the place where surfboards are replaced by snowboards every fall about this time.

Sander's house in Camp Connell

This whopper of a winter storm dropped plenty of rain on the Sacramento Valley floor over the last few days, brought in gusty winds and generally reminded Adm. Fox and I why we head to Mexico every December.

Brrr.... Donde esta mi flip-flops?

In anticipation of that sojourn south, we spent part of Saturday at our down-sized storage unit, shifting clothes and getting ready for several upcoming trips.

But the storm also suggested that we should not try to drive up into the mountains to the town of Arnold, where a fiesta will be held Monday night for amigos Randy and Karin. They sold their mountain home and are headed to Santa Fe, New Mexico. We will also see them in Mexico this winter - they own a prime lot in Arroyo Seco, two blocks from the Pink Flamingo.

And there will not be any snow on the ground there. Dust? Of course.

California being California, the rain seems to have passed and the sun is out bright this morning, a harbinger of a sunny day perhaps. The thermometer is not having none of that, however. It seems to be stuck at just above 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Here, that seems damn cold. In Hector, New York, it would close to balmy.

Somewhere else, though (like Mexico) the surf's up and ready.

Me, too.

World's biggest surfboard

The ukulele on its way to La Manzanilla for winter and spring

Captain on the uke

SACRAMENTO, Calif., USA - My ukulele - which hasn't had a workout in weeks - is now safely in the back of the Nissan Pathfinder being driven south by amigos Beth and Roy.

The couple stopped by last night, had dinner and spent the night, then catapulted off this morning with stops planned in Yosemite, San Francisco and many parts between here and La Manzanilla.

They are carrying my uke as well as a couple of boogie-boards given to us by Dan and Lorraine Olsen, currently cruising on their sailboat somewhere in the Caribbean.

How to get the ukulele to Mexico became a minor crisis because of my new video camera. No way that piece of electronic gear is going into checked luggage. Ditto for the ukulele. It would arrive in three pieces, maybe four.

As it is, Admiral Fox and I are heading out to storage Friday (or Saturday) to check out what we need to pack to take to Mexico. All of the relatively cold-weather clothes we are wearing now need to be packed up and boxed in favor of the shorts, T-shirts, sandals and flip-flops that are the uniform of the day in La Manzanilla and Arroyo Seco.

I can see the ocean from my window right now. Or at least I wish I could.

In searching for the photo of the uke above, I ran across this classic ukulele video - one of my favorites.

Careening to Mexico - but to exactly what, we'll see when we arrive

SACRAMENTO, Calif., USA - Parts of Mexico would appear to be imploding or exploding, depending on your perspective. Not a day seems to go by without a published and/or broadcast report that more bodies have been unearthed somewhere along the U.S.-Mexican border, or some travesty involving violence has happened somewhere to the south. The New York Times has been doing a credible job of reporting on all the nastiness. I'm trying to skip over some of the stories; they are too gruesome.

Even in our little corner of the Costa Alegre, south of Puerto Vallarta, a developer has grabbed arguably the most beautiful beach on the west coast of the Mexican mainland (Tenacatita) and now threatens to shoot anyone who tries to go to the beach, beaches which Mexican law proudly declares belong to the people.

People with guns, apparently.


Tenacatita Beach, May 2, 2009 - all empty now, except for guards with guns

Still, in a little over a month, Adm. Fox and I will head south (by plane, not driving across the border this year, thank you very much) and check out how things are in Arroyo Seco, our village where serenity has reigned for the few years we've lived there in the winter.

We hope it's still serene, but given that it is only a few miles from occupied Tenacatita Beach, we are braced for some tension there, too. And the village might have some new residents, some of the 800 or so Mexicans who were booted from their homes and businesses so unceremoniously (and viciously) August 4. Most of the refugees are clustered in and around the small village of Rebalsito, a tiny town on the highway into the beach, though some of those folks have family ties to Arroyo Seco.

Earlier this year, the evicted people blocked the major north-south highway as a protest - and in since August, have been trying every legal avenue possible to get their property (most of it federally titled) back.


Protesters on the highway in August

Still, I have started to pack my new camera gear, new hats (my dermatologist has insisted), and warm-weather clothing for the Mexican winter. And, of course, presents for granddaughter Sasha Fox in Puerto Vallarta have started stacking up likes planes over Denver, around our suitcases. My greatest dilemma is how to bring down my eight-string ukulele. My new camera gear has to be hand-carried on the plane. With my other carry-on - my backpack full of important Mexico papers - I am at capacity.

But sans the uke, there would be no participating in open mic nights at the newly renovated Palapa Joe's.

That's a sobering thought.

Mexico, prepare for incoming.

Rains come to Arroyo Seco - no outside work today

ARROYO SECO, Jalisco, Mexico - The humidity was about 100 percent Monday when I mowed the grass with our new-to-the-Pink-Flamingo lawnmower. But that kind of humidity usually spells rain and so I was determined to cut the sacate.

And at about 2 a.m. I was rewarded for my labors with, at first, a nice gentle shower, followed by about seven hours of pretty steady rain. The property drained pretty well, though we did end up with several lagunas here and there.

As I write this, just past beer o'clock, it has stopped and the puddles are gradually disappearing into the ground. But more rain is forecast and I am scrambling to find all the tarps I just neatly folded, in case either of our trailers decides to take on water.

And the best news? The work I had planned for today is effectively canceled. That means I finally get to watch the movie Avatar (for a second time...).


Greener grass on the way

So what do you do on a rainy day in Mexico? Same as in the U.S.

Everyone sits around and talks about the rain - and the weather in general. Our neighbor Chon came over and like a couple of Iowa farmers, we thoroughly discussed the weird weather patterns that have been in evidence since we arrived in December. We discussed things thoroughly at least as much as my Spanish - and his English - would allow.

But mud puddles aside, one side benefit is not having to wash the cars! They have been rinsed thoroughly, including the new carrito just purchased by Chief Educational Officer Laura Warner/

And if I am hearing correctly, another heavy duty rinsing might be on the way.


Laura's new carrito

A night of nights at Palapa Joe's open mic extravaganza

LA MANZANILLA, Jalisco, Mexico - The open mic night at Palapa Joe's Saturday was not billed as an extravaganza, but it turned out to be one anyway.

The bar and restaurant were packed to overflowing a full hour before the first music set was to begin and the Palapa Joe's crew worked double time - make that triple time - to fill food and drink orders.

Even the sidewalk outside was filled from time to time with people wondering if they could come in and find a place to perch to listen.

As always, Jane Gorby (aka Lois Lane, for her work with the Guadalajara Reporter) introduced the acts and provided clever segues as musicians tried to set up their equipment and do sound checks. She jumped into the act herself with a reading.

The evening was as electic as it was fun, with poetry, ballads, Celtic music, drama and some rock 'n' roll thrown in.

When is the next open mic?

Watch the La Manzanilla message board, but it should be in about two weeks.


Bernardo croons a tune


Celtic trio got the crowd tapping its feet


Gabriela de la Vega reads her poetry - in Spanish and English

A night on the town in La Manzanilla, complete with music

LA MANZANILLA, Jalisco, Mexico - The Admiral, Laura and I left the quiet confines of Arroyo Seco for a fundraiser party at Rusty and Julie Wagner's last night, a fundraiser that was very successful, both financially and, well, socially.

The music was provided by Willie (of Palapa Joes) on the guitar and amigo Dan on a hot harmonica. And along with their tunes was the singing and guitar music of duo Simone and Mike who got quite a few people out dancing.

In fact, they got nearly everyone out dancing.

Yup, even this captain.



The money raised goes towards the cost of putting on a free spay and neutering clinic in March, an annual event that draws people with dogs from the entire area.

Last year, the Admiral and I dragged about 24 pooches in for operations from out in Arroyo Seco. Not sure I am up to that task again, but then I don't think there are that many dogs left in Arroyo Seco that need tending to.


Dance floor at Rusty and Julie's


Admiral Fox, Jane Gorby (AKA Lois Lane) and Laura Warner

In Mexico it's warm air, warm water but hard to get to the Internet

LA MANZANILLA, Jalisco, Mexico - We arrived in La Manzanilla a few days ago, renting a casa a block from the beach but neglected to arrange for regular at-home Internet access ahead of time.

We have had to rely on the kindness of both Palapa Joe's and Cafe Risa until we set up out in Arroyo Seco for the season - a project that begins today.

But we have managed to get in a lot of fun, including a trip to Tenacatita Tuesday to snorkel and see if the seafood is still great at Fiesta Mexicana.

It is.


Laura and Admiral Fox test the warm bay waters


Eric and Tina Hazlitt return from some serious snorkeling

Taking a 'vacation' from retirement

LA MANZANILLA, Jalisco, Mexico - The Admiral and I are taking a vacation from retirement.

I know, I know.

But if you have been following our saga this winter and spring you know that retirement has not meant golf, shuffle board and rocking chairs (hammocks maybe). Between all of the construction, then landscaping and most recently all of the 'save-the-dogs' efforts, we seem to have been running full-tilt, far busier than teaching in Sacramento.

Far busier. (OK, we have squeezed in a lot of fun, too. But still...)

For the past couple of days - and one more tomorrow - we have been doing some serious lounging (Is than an oxymoron?) at a house in La Manzanilla, without fixing anything, or chasing (and bathing) a single street pooch. (Oh crap, I hear a hound barking on the street. Somebody grab the Admiral, quick.)


Pre-vacation warmup in Arroyo Seco last week

The days off have been made more fun by having U.S. amigos Randy and Karin in town. They arrived a couple of days ago, getting off the plane in Manzanillo and immediately shifting from their native cold, mountain air (they live near Sanders and Pat Lamont in the California mountains) to the stifling humidity that has suddenly arrived in the last week.

That humidity was quite apparent went they stepped off the plane and made their way across the 90 degree tarmac to the terminal. Their flight was probably carrying 50 people - on a plane designed for 300.



But Randy and Karen conquered the humidity the way we all do down here (if you live close to the beach). They grabbed their bathing suits and we all traveled to the La Manzanilla beach for swimming - and a little shade from our umbrella.

The water has warmed up remarkably in the past two weeks, bringing with it some fear that sting rays might also be wanting to enjoying the waters. And on the La Manzanilla beach, the water is usually clouded with sand when the surf comes up, making visibility a problem.

No sting rays showed up, but midway through the afternoon we rubbed our eyes as we watched an overturned sailboat drift up on shore. For a captain, this is stuff nightmares are made of.


Sailboat drifting in

It was hard to say how long the boat had been drifting, but there wasn't any green algae growth on the underwater parts so I would guess that the boat was in the water for less than a week, maybe even just a few days.

Randy and checked out the boat pretty thoroughly - no name, hailing port or rigging at all. It did have plenty of bottom paint which was sloughing off quickly onto any of the young Mexican children who climbed on the boat to get a peek in through one of the major holes in the hull.

Because I have gotten quite sick from getting that paint on me in years past, I convinced most of the kids that the blue paint was peligroso (dangerous) and malo (bad).

Most of the children washed the paint off right away in the saltwater, probably enough prevention.



An added La Manzanilla treat was getting to attend a very small family birthday party for our God-daughter Devani two days ago. Her mother and grandmother and grandfather have moved to a much smaller house as the economic downtown - and H1N1, the malady formerly known as swine flu - battered the economy of this village so much that they lost their jobs.

No tourists, no money, no jobs for the family. They hope their two-table restaurant will keep them afloat for awhile. But we're not sure. No tourists probably means no customers. Except for us, perhaps.

The Mexicans we talk with are completely baffled by the fear many Americans seem to have of Mexico. Like folks in the U.S., they understand there are parts of their country to be more careful in. In Mexico, that's border towns and the big cities. In the U.S., it's border towns and the big cities.

Hmm...


Devani sits on her birthday present

Some new dirt on the road - and a lot less dust in the air

ARROYO SECO, Jalisco, Mexico - Three days away from the Pink Flamingo made it evident that the dust in the street here (ok, and on the property) is not good for my respiration. In Colima and Comala, my breathing was generally easier, even adjusted for the beer, tequila, and cheese-rich food intake.

But one of the miracles of living in a small town in Mexico occurred within 24 hours of returning.

After chatting with my neighbor Chon - whose son Dani suffers from asthma believed to be triggered by street dust - we concocted a plan to cover the street in front of our places with a heavy soil that is not prone to turning to dust. One day later, the dirt was dumped and spread. And already we can see when cars go by that the dust swirls are very small. More important, they are close to the ground and don't seem to want leap over my dust barrier.


New dirt on the road - and less dust

In the U.S., I suspect we would have had to file an environmental impact report, get a permit from at least three government agencies and have six inspectors on site when the dirt was dumped and spread. Oh, and for sure, there would have been some testing of the dirt to ensure it didn't contain any heavy metals or substances that could trigger allergies. And fees, lots of fees for all those inspectors.

Instead, Chon's brother in law found the dirt, loaded his dump truck and brought it over.

Voila, as my French amigo Julien says.


Dust storm in Texas in 1935

Since contracting pulmonia (pneumonia) more than a month ago - and continuing to hack like a heavy smoker for weeks - I read up on dust-borne diseases and related problems. In the U.S., the closest thing I found is called Valley Fever - a malady I had twice there in years past. During the years of the Dust Bowl, many people died from swirling dust after getting caught in storms like the one in the photo above.

In addition to the new dirt, the Admiral is laying plans for some additional palm trees and more cloth to shield the property from the road. And inside, we are considering putting down a large area of grass in the center - ringed by trees.

Will I need a lawnmower? Good grief, I hope not.


Palapa Joe's owner Willy strikes a classic Willy pose

We have been spending a lot of time in La Manzanilla for the past week, visiting with relatives and friends, running various errands and we almost always end up at Palapa Joe's, for lunch and a beer.

Thursday I took the photo above of Palapa Joe's owner Willy, watching the street, one of his pasttimes when not preparing industrial strength margaritas or Cuba Libres for customers.

In our bar chat Thursday, Willy and I talked about how many people begin leaving La Manzanilla in the next few weeks, trying to get out of town before Semana Santa (Easter weeek) and the huge crowds that flood the village, with many people camping on the beach for near round-the-clock parties.

I'll be interested to see if we have much of an influx of vacationers here in Arroyo Seco. At Christmas, we did have a small contingent of vacationers camping out on the beach.

For the Admiral and I, some of the best time is after Semana Santa, as the ocean water warms back up and spring hits full force.

For now, I'm just happy to be taking in deep breaths of air - sans polvo (dust).


A March sunset at Tenacatita Bay

Dining in the street - and fishing on Tenacatita Bay

LA MANZANILLA, Jalisco, Mexico - We took a vacation from The Pink Flamingo in Arroyo Seco for a few days this week, going to the big city of La Manzanilla where we had dinner Monday night at the restaurant owned by the grandmother of our God-daughter, Devani.

Irma and our God-daughter's mother, Mimi, put on an incredible meal for us at a price of about 55 pesos per person. And the nine of us loaded up on chile rellenos and pozole.

For most of the folks - from Hector, New York and Boston - it was their first experience sitting street-side while having dinner.


Dinner at Irma's, a half-block from the church

The traffic was quite cooperative, however and though people sitting in the outside chairs flinched a few times when the trucks rolled by, it didn't diminish the meal a bit.

The three bottles of wine on the table might have helped with anxiety, too.



After the good chow Monday, two of our amigos from the East Coast of the U.S., (Karl and Mike), went out fishing early Tuesday morning, stocked with sunscreen, hats and a small quantity of beer to stave off dehydration.

Oh, and they took fishing gear too, in a panga with the three local Mexican fisherman who took them out.

When Karl and Mike came in four hours later, they swore that they had not caught a damn thing.

Not true it turned out. Not true at all.


Bucket of red snapper


Karl shows off his skipjack tuna


In our other travels before heading to the big city, Admiral Fox and I did make a foray out to Playa Chica in Arroyo Seco Sunday morning to check on the status of the surf - and surfers.

The waves were large and some of the surfers were having a great time, even with a relatively short break in the surf.

I was able to grab one photo of a fellow who appeared to be trying to surf sans a surfboard.

Amazing things happen here in Arroyo Seco.


Barefoot surfing?

Laura's language school is over - but will return again

ARROYO SECO, Jalisco, Mexico - Our Canadian amigo Laura Warner ended up her all-too-brief stay here at the Pink Flamingo on Sunday, after a whirlwind week of teaching ingles to 30 (or more) village children and getting involved in the wedding Saturday night here in the village.

Friday morning - at the end of the last session - many of her young charges said they wanted her to keep teaching next week, and the week after, and the week after, and....

There was barely a dry eye among those of us who helped Laura with the class.


Julien gives a group lesson in English, French and Spanish

One of the helpers was Julien, a surfer who lives part of the year in Arroyo Seco, the rest in France where he works on high-rise buildings doing painting and window washing - on the outside. Despite the strenuousness of his French occupation, he told Laura that the time he spent teaching the children this past week was the hardest thing he had ever done.

This from a guy whose first language is French, Spanish is second and English third.

Julien has been helping nephew Nate to learn how to surf and will soon probably be giving some instructions to Ruth Bills' crew, arriving tomorrow, who will be staying in La Manzanilla, but who we expect to see a lot of in Arroyo Seco


Trying hard to see the board - and the English phrases

The students worked very hard and although none of them will be giving any major addresses in English in the near future, it helped spark a lot of enthusiasm. We are cautiously planning on seeing how we can conduct some mini-classes in coming weeks and months. Prospective visitors be warned: you might be teaching un poco ingles.

The next few days are dedicated to reclaiming the property and cleaning up after have seven people around for a week. Everyone pitched in very well, but seven people is, well, seven people.

Oh, and Lucky the dog did his part to make life interesting, too.


She says 'Good Morning' now, each day as she passes

Arroyo Seco children learning English through music

ARROYO SECO, Jalisco, Mexico - The second day of our amiga Laura Warner's classes de Ingles for the village children went well today, with the addition of some American rap music.

Yup, American rap.

Hey! Whatever works!


The rap was just part of a multi-pronged lesson that included practice with phrases like: I have two brothers and three sisters, I like to dance and My favorite sport is soccer.

What was supposed to be an intimate class of 10 or 11 students mushroomed to 31 at one point, with children elbowing their way onto the palapa at The Pink Flamingo, their notebooks in hand.

Their sincerity at wanting to learn is heartbreaking.


Laura's class in Arroyo Seco


Using music as a teaching tool

We have two more days of classes and the children are excited, showing up at the gate promptly at 3 p.m. for the lessons. Laura asked for my dictionary today so she could look up the word in Spanish for 'overwhelmed' because she felt that after two days of teaching so many eager children in so short a time frame.

Still, many of the children linger after the lesson to fine tune parts of what they heard and get ready for the next day's words.

And in the morning, instead of practicing my Spanish as the 10-12-year-olds walk by going to school (as I was doing), now they have instructions from Laura to speak to me in Ingles. And I, of course, am supposed to respond to help them learn.

It's a big school right now, for all of us.


Student notebook

On an unrelated, yet related note, my doctor has declared me pneumonia-free but did put me on a new drug two days ago that has me on the mend very quickly. These pesky bronchitis-type infections can turn nasty in their tropical climate and my doc said she is not taking any chances.

I agree with that medical strategy.