What's summer without a nice summer cold to cap things off?

VALOIS, New York, USA - After a three-day weekend that included a great beach party Friday, attending the Cardboard Boat Races (and party) Saturday, and then Jenn and Carl's wedding (and reception) Sunday afternoon and evening, I was about as hydrated as I could be, and felt great. Three parties in three days and ready for more lake fun.

Woo-hoo!

And feeling great lasted right until Wednesday morning when I woke up at 6 a.m. with a sore throat, a cough - and a head cold - one of those cement-head-type colds in which everything you see and hear seems to be going on behind a heavy gauze curtain. After talking with Hector amiga Karen Schamel, I learned that the cold was making the rounds of all of Schuyler County.

And here I thought I was patient zero.

But on this second day of the cold, I feel a little better, perhaps a combination of yesterday afternoon's boating, ample hydration, and warm sun to bake the cold out. I wish today were as warm. Maybe it will be soon.


Jenn and Carl's vows on Sunday


Entry in the cardboard boat race



Yesterday, Admiral Fox had to barrel off for appointments, leaving me (and my cement-solid head, no comments please) alone at the house for the day. After doing some dock improvements, I decided the best thing for my cold was a trip across the lake (by pontoon boat, of course) to the Showboat Restaurant and Bar, about five miles away on the east side of Seneca Lake.

The place has good docking facilities, excellent cold beer,  passable hamburgers and fries, and occasionally waitresses who could be aspiring to work at a Hooters restaurant. It seemed the perfect place for a destination cruise - and to sit around for the afternoon.

Alas, when I arrived shortly after noon, ready for a beer and a burger, a 16-year-old fellow - wielding a power drill in the bar - told me that the restaurant might be opening this coming weekend. "I think they'll be open then," he said.

I think I will call ahead before taking a voyage there again.


The Showboat's outside bar - closed until further notice

It was nice to return to our dock, however, and see how my handiwork from earlier in the day looked from the water.

I added white bumper strips to the pilings so visiting boats - and the Spirit of Louise, of course - could moor without having to reach into dark boat lockers to find fenders, and then tie them on to protect the vessel. I got the idea for the strips from Eric and Tina Hazlitt's dock, though I should have spent a little more time asking around how to actually install the pieces.

(Ever dropped an electric drill into the water? How about a box of screws? A screwdriver?)

Still, Wednesday morning, even with a head that felt like it was full of slow-drying cement, I was able to install the strips and now we are ready to inaugurate the Valois Point Yacht Club.

Or at least as soon as I get the bar built on the end of the dock.

On Facebook, I put up a photo of the dock and sunshade, indicating that all I needed now was a bar - and barflies - to complete the picture. I immediately had volunteers for the barfly positions.

This should be fun...


Valois Point Yacht Club dock

From Mexico, there was some good news (even if expensive) in the last week: Our palapa's new roof is almost finished at The Pink Flamingo in Arroyo Seco.

The original roof - covered with interlocking ceramic tiles - was so heavy it was cracking the support beams and making strange creaking noises. Conventional wisdom said it would not last another rainy season. The monsoon rains can add tons of weight to the roof during downpours.

Our amigo and neighbor Chon took on the project (along with a crew of Arroyo Seco workers), stripping off the tiles and replacing them with an attractive laminate material that looks very similar, but weighs about 10 percent of the original roof.

Admiral Fox and I will sleep better knowing the palapa will still be standing when we go home to Mexico in December, even if we are many pesos poorer.

We'll drown our sorrows (about how many pesos we had to lay out) down on the dock at the VPYC - when I get the bar built ...


Chon hard at work replacing the roof

Some new dirt on the road - and a lot less dust in the air

ARROYO SECO, Jalisco, Mexico - Three days away from the Pink Flamingo made it evident that the dust in the street here (ok, and on the property) is not good for my respiration. In Colima and Comala, my breathing was generally easier, even adjusted for the beer, tequila, and cheese-rich food intake.

But one of the miracles of living in a small town in Mexico occurred within 24 hours of returning.

After chatting with my neighbor Chon - whose son Dani suffers from asthma believed to be triggered by street dust - we concocted a plan to cover the street in front of our places with a heavy soil that is not prone to turning to dust. One day later, the dirt was dumped and spread. And already we can see when cars go by that the dust swirls are very small. More important, they are close to the ground and don't seem to want leap over my dust barrier.


New dirt on the road - and less dust

In the U.S., I suspect we would have had to file an environmental impact report, get a permit from at least three government agencies and have six inspectors on site when the dirt was dumped and spread. Oh, and for sure, there would have been some testing of the dirt to ensure it didn't contain any heavy metals or substances that could trigger allergies. And fees, lots of fees for all those inspectors.

Instead, Chon's brother in law found the dirt, loaded his dump truck and brought it over.

Voila, as my French amigo Julien says.


Dust storm in Texas in 1935

Since contracting pulmonia (pneumonia) more than a month ago - and continuing to hack like a heavy smoker for weeks - I read up on dust-borne diseases and related problems. In the U.S., the closest thing I found is called Valley Fever - a malady I had twice there in years past. During the years of the Dust Bowl, many people died from swirling dust after getting caught in storms like the one in the photo above.

In addition to the new dirt, the Admiral is laying plans for some additional palm trees and more cloth to shield the property from the road. And inside, we are considering putting down a large area of grass in the center - ringed by trees.

Will I need a lawnmower? Good grief, I hope not.


Palapa Joe's owner Willy strikes a classic Willy pose

We have been spending a lot of time in La Manzanilla for the past week, visiting with relatives and friends, running various errands and we almost always end up at Palapa Joe's, for lunch and a beer.

Thursday I took the photo above of Palapa Joe's owner Willy, watching the street, one of his pasttimes when not preparing industrial strength margaritas or Cuba Libres for customers.

In our bar chat Thursday, Willy and I talked about how many people begin leaving La Manzanilla in the next few weeks, trying to get out of town before Semana Santa (Easter weeek) and the huge crowds that flood the village, with many people camping on the beach for near round-the-clock parties.

I'll be interested to see if we have much of an influx of vacationers here in Arroyo Seco. At Christmas, we did have a small contingent of vacationers camping out on the beach.

For the Admiral and I, some of the best time is after Semana Santa, as the ocean water warms back up and spring hits full force.

For now, I'm just happy to be taking in deep breaths of air - sans polvo (dust).


A March sunset at Tenacatita Bay

All cement - and cement dust - all the time at the Pink Flamingo

ARROYO SECO, Jalisco, Mexico - The banging, clanging, chipping and other noises too incredible to describe here continue to sing out daily. The concrete chipping started at 7 a.m. today, with the maestro building shelves in what will be a laundry utility room. He worked until 8 p.m. last night and if I had left the lights on, he would have worked all night.

Today, after all these projects have been looking like, well, just projects, they are coming together and seem near completion.

Even the electrician is wiring madly today - though our second electrical service meter isn't connected and no one seems to know when that will be.


Floor for the outside cocina


The showers and banos actually have a roof

Yesterday, Lucky Dog and I climbed to the ridge behind The Pink Flamingo to see what it looks like this year from the heights. The various buildings and tent structures (and the trees) give it a nice bit of privacy, but the palapa still looks huge.

We visited another lot we own on the hill, discovering that it hasn't been cleared yet and the bugs, snakes (yes, snakes), and a hundred other skittering lifeforms were obviously distressed that we intruded on their lot.

We will hire someone to clear it this week and evict our non-paying natural tenants.


A view of The Pink Flamingo from the ridge to the southeast

My vecinos and amigos Chon and Kiko have been laboring for the past two days to build the floor of the cocina - a project I was going to do myself but was convinced by the Admiral that hiring them would be better.

As I see how strong they are building it, well, the Admiral had a good point. I would have done it much muy rapido, but with a weaker foundation. And even though it is a 'temporary,' floor, I remember from so many boat projects on Sabbatical that the temporary fix is sometimes in place for a long time.

Maybe years.

A side benefit to helping Chon and Kiko (I shovel, move bricks) has been being fed by Kiko, who was a chef in Napa before returning to the village a year or so ago. With Chon's wife Chena out of town, and the Admiral off in Vallarta, Chon said that Kiko (his nephew) has to cook.


Breakfast by Kiko

An afternoon at the pool in Barra de Navidad

BARRA DE NAVIDAD, Jalisco, Mexico - It was quite fitting that we took Sunday afternoon off and returned to the scene of earlier good times, the Grand Bay Hotel in Barra de Navidad. Three years ago, our 48-foot sloop Sabbatical was safely moored at the hotel and we were sipping drinks at poolside wondering where our next sailing destination would be.

Little did we know that we would, in the parlance of sailors, swallow the anchor, and suddenly be building a casita.

I am happy to report that the hotel is as beautiful as it was, the pool was as clean and fresh, and the food and cocktails are, well, divine.


Grand Bay Hotel swim-up bar

We went to the hotel to visit with amigos of our amigo, Mario. Tom and Louise have a boat in the marina and just bought a house in Barra de Navidad. (We offered our condolences on how much work they now have ahead.) An amigo of theirs - Beverly - was there too, visiting from Puerto Vallarta where she has a casa.

The afternoon consisted of swimming, a Pacifico, more swimming, another Pacifico with a hamburger and fries for lunch, and a third Pacifico after lunch.

And a nap. An honest-to-God, wide-open-mouth nap.

But the trip there would not have been complete without sampling what was our favorite drink at the hotel in the past: a melange of liquors and ice called a 'ballena.' The drink was just as tasty as ever, though they no longer serve it in the giant globe glasses.


The Captain sips a frosty ballena at the Grand Bay

Today, urban renewal renewed in Arroyo Seco with the roof tiles going on over the bathrooms and showers and the final concrete and brickwork started.

And one last project also began: building a floor for a temporary cocina: a place for the new refrigerator, stove and tables. That work is being done by our amigos and neighbors as I write. In fact, I believe I should get back out there and take some beer orders. It's hot today.


View from the Grand Bay Hotel pool deck

Spanish in the morning means Mexico can't be that far off

SACRAMENTO, Calif., USA - In a dream last night, I was having a conversation with my amiga (and neighbor) Azucena in Arroyo Seco about where to plant some palm trees and whether her husband, my amigo Chon, could help.

And we were doing it all in Spanish - a sure sign that my mind is drifting east and south, muy rapido.


Chon and Chena

The weather in Sacramento is not helping me stay focused on Northern California zip codes, either.

In the last week, the temperatures have plummeted, forcing me to, gasp, wear long pants instead of shorts. Last fall, I wore shorts right through until we headed out of the driveway. This year, the 45-degree mornings convinced me that I should be wearing something warmer.

The other thing not helping is moving my Mexico photos from one computer to another. They are like old friends, and, of course, many of the photos are of friends.

Think about being cold and looking at the photo below.

How many days until the Admiral and I are in Mexico?


Beach at Boca de Iguana, north of La Manzanilla

Adios Arroyo Seco and La Manzanilla - hello New York

PUERTO VALLARTA, Jalisco, Mexico - The Admiral and I said a very sad goodbye to La Manzanilla and Arroyo Seco today, sad because after more than 5 months here, we realized that this area really has become home.

And who wants to leave home, even if it is to go to a lake in upstate New York to watch one of your children get married.

We ended our stay in La Manzanilla by staying a week with Kate Fisher at her lovely home on the bay, taking a week of 'vacation.' Her downstairs apartments are exactly what you want if you stay on the beach. We considered asking her to adopt us so we would never have to leave.

We figured she would decline to adopt us, but she did say we can come back in November.

In Arroyo Seco, we ended our stay (and months-long adventure) by getting within days of completing all our projects on our downtown lot. Saddest of all was saying goodbye to our vecinos (neighbors) and good friends Chena and Chon who have helped us so much in understanding Arroyo Seco. They were the first people we met there and the last people we said goodbye to today.

Muy triste.

The highlight of what turned out to be a very busy week was throwing a fiesta for the workers (and other Arroyo Seco and La Manzanilla amigos) who have helped so much to get the buildings and structures going.


Getting the food ready for the fiesta at Chena's

A fiesta is just a big party, right?

Well, sort of. We had seven kilos of arrachera, a four-kilo bucket of ceviche, a huge salad, tortillas, chips, shrimp a la diablo and so many other kinds of food and eats on a big serving table I really can't remember them all.

The memory lapse might also be linked to the eight cases of beer that were consumed, along with a bottle of tequila. I didn't drink it all personally, but reportedly I did my share.

All the food was prepared in Chena and Chon's Arroyo Seco kitchen, right across the street from our new palapa. People pitched in and in less than two hours, a feast was ready for the 30 or so people at the fiesta.


Relaxing after la comida


Serious about the tequila


Fiesta table

After a few days here in Puerto Vallarta, we will head out to fly via US Airways to Seneca Lake, where we have a wedding to get ready for in mid-June, a pontoon boat to relaunch (The Spirit of Louise) and at least a dozen wineries to visit to get just the right vino for the wedding fiesta.

We could sure use Chena and Chon's expertise to help out with the fiesta there.


Chon and Chena at una quinceanara in Arroyo Seco

Adios, La Manzanilla y Arroyo Seco, regresamos en Noviembre.

More progress in Arroyo Seco - and a tamale party

ARROYO SECO, Jalisco, Mexico - Our amigos Scott & Jen left this morning to head back to the U.S., just ahead of the fun police who would have run us all in if we had any more of a good time.

We fished, went to the beach, toured around from Barra de Navidad to Arroyo Seco, ate meals at nearly every restaurant in town (some several times) and generally fit a month's worth of adventure into a week.

Siesta time, anyone?

On our fishing expedition, the only fish caught was by an amigo named Francisco, and it hardly would have fed more than one person. But earlier that day, our fishing guide and amigo Chon wisely stopped by the fishing nets and purchased some red snapper for our lunches.

One smart fishing guide.

The great wall project on our downtown lot is about 2/3 done in Arroyo Seco with the rest probably completed next week. Our across-the-street neighbor (Chon) has built a temporary fence in front and is about to start on some huge steel gates - also temporary - so when we leave for the U.S., the Grey Goose Express and our kayaks will be secure.

And a phone line. A phone line! We expect our telephone will be hooked up next week. And we found out that DSL is available after all.

Next thing you know, there will be Comcast trucks rolling through. (Gawd, that would be awful.)


The maestro putting up bricks


Camped out in Arroyo Seco

But one of the highlights of the whole week was being invited to (and attending) a party in honor of some surfers who were leaving to head back to France to work - so they can make money to come back again next year. They have been coming for a last few years and staying 6 to 9 months on the beach.

Before we got to eat, we all took part in a huge tamale-making operation at Chena and Chon's house, then went out to the beach for a great dinner..


Admiral fills the tamale steamer


Tamale-maker Kelly from Los Angeles avoids dehydration

Here's a brief video of the activities: